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When assembling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might expect familiar high-end venues. However, tucked near the top among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

The small Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This honour has made the proprietors totally astonished.

“I’m totally astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their modest restaurant achieving such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary honour.